More help get paint off.

[ozvet350]

Father Larry,

I am back to ask for some more help getting my 1790 Coupe ready to repaint. Thanks to your help so far I have got all the paint off the body and now just need to do the T-Tops. I have the headliners off, but have hit a snag with the chrome strip that runs around two edges of each panel. The section along the window edge looks to be pop rivetted in place and the front edge looks to be pressed on. Could you tell me the clean way to remove it all and anything to watch out for when taking it off and putting it back.

Also on the window edge one unit had a channels for the weatherstrip and the other did not. This does not suprize me as this car seems to have been butchered in a past part of it's life. So should there be a removable channel or not, and if there is what would it be called so I can get another.

There is one other thing with one panel. It has something small in it which rattles around and gives me the you know whats. It seems that the two main parts of the roof are moulded together, so is the a way I can get them apart to get whatever it is out.


Thanks again for all your help so far.

Your friend
Max Brown (Australia)

[FinWolf]

I think we should make this a forum project and all go to Australia and get some cheese steaks on the barbie.:lol: :cheers: Post some pic as you go along with the paint job.

[fatherlarry]

Finwolf, I think its called kangaroo cheesesteak":lol:

ozvet350, Hope this helps.
_____________________________________

REAR OUTER MOLDING P-SEAL
REMOVAL, SEALING & INSTALLATION


TO REMOVE

STEP 1
TO REMOE T-ROOF GLASS PANELS & PLACE ON A PROTECTIVE SURFACE.

STEP 2
USING A BODY FILLER SQUEEGEE. SEPARATE P-SEAL FROM MOLDING EXPOSING SIX 1/8" DIA. RIVETS. NOTE: THE P-SEAL IS NOT REUSABLE.

STEP 3
USING A PUTTY KNIFE OR SIMILAR TOOL, PUSH DOWN ON THE ROOF WEATHERSEAL WHILE DRILLING OUT RIVETS.
NOTE: THIS WILL KEEP THE WEATHERSEAL FROM BEING DAMAGED WHILE DRILLING.

STEP 4
CAREFULLY LIFT THE MOLDING UP & AWAY FROM THE VEHICLE.



TO INSTALL:

STEP 1
APPLY A BEAD OF 1/4" LIQUID BUTYL TO THE AREA BETWEEN THE ROOF SKIN & THE TOP FLANGE OF THE T-ROOF FRAME ASSEMBLY. ALSO APPLY BUTYL SEALANT TO ALL PREVIOUSLY DRILLED HOLES. NOTE: USE CAUTION WHEN APPLYING BUTYL ACROSS THE TOP FLANGE AREA AS NOT TO FILL THE REAR DRAIN THROUGHS.

STEP 2
MARK THE LOCATIONS OF THE SIX RIBS IN THE FRAME ASSEMBLY.

STEP 3
CENTER THE MOLDING TO THE T-ROOF MATCHING THE ENDS OF THE MOLDINGS TO THE SWEEP OF THE CHARACTER LINES OF THE REAR ROOF SKIN, BY SLIPPING THE SIX CLIPS ON THE MOLDING BETWEEN THE FRAME ASSEMBLY & THE ROOF SKIN.

STEP 4
DRILL SIX 1/8" DIA. HOLES THRU THE MOLDING & THRU THE FRAME ASSEMBLY AT THE SIX PREVIOUSLY MARKED LOCATIONS.

STEP 5
FASTEN THE MOLDING TO THE T-ROOF FRAME ASSEMBLY USING 1/8" SEALED RIVETS.

STEP 6
CENTER THE P-SEAL TO THE MOLDING, REMOVE PAPER BACKING & APPLY P-SEAL TO MOLDING. KEEP THE BULB PORTION OF THE P-SEAL FLUSH WITH THE TOP OF THE MOLDING. TRIM END OF THE P-SEAL & TUCK APPROX. 1/4" OF THE SEAL UNDER THE OUTER EDGE OF THE MOLDING.

STEP 7
USING A BODY FILLER SQUEEGEE, SMOOTH P-SEAL AGAINST THE MOLDING.

STEP 8
RESEAL ROOF DRAIN, REFER TO "ROOF WEATHERSEAL DRAIN AREA SEALING"

[ozvet350]

Father Larry,

I think our problem with termanoligies has again caught us out. I was looking for info on removing the strip from the actual T-Roof panels as you have referred to them in your reply. I have all of the parts around the opening when you take these off covered.

Regards
Max

[fatherlarry]

I'm sorry I took so long to get back to you. I actually had forgotten about this post. I do apologize.

On the removeable panel there is a channel that is riveted in that holds the weatherstrippig near the window and then is glued on to the panel that rests on the chrome molding on the windshield. Sometimes this panel has rivets or short phillip head screws. As far as the chrome strip that goes half way around each panel, that has a thin black weatherstrip glued to it. That molding is actually pressed on the panel. If you look at it you will see notches which are set notches that hold the molding in place once its pressed on. To remove those you must be very careful and hit the edge of the molding lightly with a flat piece of hardwood. Keep tapping and walking along the edge until it starts to move outward. A lot of guys have a tendency of using a putty knife when removing, tapping it forward, only to find out that the putty knife makes a dent in the molding, so try to stay on the edge and keep walking along with it. When reinstalling after the panel is painted, fill the channel molding with vaseline and with a thick squeegie resting on the molding, with the panel face up, line the molding up and tap along, watching that your not grabbing the painted area that you just finished. The vaseline will make the chrome channel slide without damaging the paint. It's a rough and tedious job. Just take your time. Sometimes the paint moves along with it because its such a tight fit. You could also use grease. Put some on the panel where the molding is sliding in also. Good luck and let me know how you make out.

[ozvet350]

Father Larry,
Thank god i again went to the one who knows before tackling the job myself. The strips are all off and in A1 condition, just need a bit of a polish. I was about to attack the strip with a putty knife, but then I decided to ask you, so once again you have saved me a huge drama.

What are these cheese steaks. I have heard them mentioned on American TV shows, but we do not have them down here.

But you are all welcome to come and try some of the best meat in the world on the barbie (BBQ).

Regards
Max Brown