New Member-1980 restoration

[aga4k]

Hi folks I'm finally a member of the club, bought an '80 that I thought would last a lifetime. This was 8 weeks ago, now I find out the body mounts are rusted away and is going to need a frame replacement. Any help on finding a site that would make that job easier and also looking for a "wooden body dolly" pattern that will support adequately. thanx.

[fatherlarry]

Welcome aboard aga4k!

Sorry to hear about your dilemma. I don't really know of any sites that show you step by step removal of the body from the frame. The frame could be lifted once all your linkage and rusted body mounts and bolts are removed. If you remove the step plates from the rocker panels, you'll see two holes. One is towards the front of the hinge pillar, and one on the rear by the lock pillar. The factory uses those to install the body once the chassis is rolled underneath it. Being that they didn't make convertibles in that year, you don't need to make up a brace to bolt on from the front hinge pillar to the lock pillar. If you have a place to connect a hoist, you could remove the doors and the t tops. Then attach bolts through the holes on each side and run the chain through. Connect the chains from both sides to the hoist. It should be pretty well balanced and then lift the body and roll the chassis out from underneath. Also, if you don't have a hoist, you can run 4X4's underneath the body where each of the lifting holes are from one door to the other, leaving the 4X4 extended two feet away from the rocker, so when you jack it up and put your horse underneath on all four sides you can roll the frame out without the wheels hitting. I'm just giving you a rough idea of how it's done. I believe there are some restoration books out there that you can purchase. I'll do some research and get back to you.

When I restored my '69, in my garage, I made up my own carraige from 4X4's to roll the body around, once it was off the frame. I bought wheels at a hardware store and constructed a carraige frame to roll the body around.

Also, look for Corvette clubs in your area and join one. I'm sure someone in the club can guide you in the right direction on how to proceed with this job. You can buy a new frame for it, and they do sell sections for the frame where you can weld on where the frame is rusted. It may be cheaper that way. You may also want to look for a Corvette Salvage yard that may have a frame to sell. To find a used, undamaged frame in a salvage yard is pretty rough, but you may get lucky. Good luck. I'll do some research for you. Hope this was of some help. Let me know how you make out.

PS. If you have no experience with this type of job, seek professional help, as it is dangerous work for a someone unskilled in this area.

[aga4k]

Thanks FatherLarry, I'm looking for all the advice I can. Although I have not done this before, I consider myself fairly mechanical, I guess I'll measure that as I progress through the project. I'm slowly rounding up tools etc to accomplish body off task. I bought a 2 ton shop crane based on a few pictures seen on an Ebay car. Hopefully that and a body lift sling from Corvette America or ?? should help. For stability I thought leaving the doors on might help, but will the weight of the body from body sling damage the fibreglass etc?? I wasn't sure. I sceptical when I heard money pit associated with Vette, this is only the start I'm sure.

[fatherlarry]

I would personally, take the doors off. Also, remove the t tops. The coupe is in a type of roll cage with the center support, so you should have plenty of support. The less interference that you have while lifting, the better, plus it's making the body lighter. I would also remove the hood, so as not to disturb the alignment or put any pressure on the hood.

The factory holes on the rocker panel, where you would bolt it have a steel reinforcement underneath. If you use the body straps (sling) and you do decide to keep the doors on, make sure that you get heavy rags or towels where the strap may lean on the door, and put them in between the door and straps. Another reason I wouldn't go that way is because, if previous body work was done, it may crack the plastic. Lifting the body is really not that expensive or hard to do. You could rent the tools you need instead of buying them, unless you think you'll have use for them later on.

When I did mine, I had a $50 hoist connected to a beam, and then the carraige I made to roll the body around was only about $60. You could also just lay the body down on the 4X4's with the horses holding it up. Don't forget to support the front, because its nose heavy.

Good luck and keep us posted.

[T@2]

http://nhvette.homeunix.com/vette.htm :wavey: Theres another site that i get e mail from once a month,but i deleted it,ill post it when it comes up again,thay are doing a
frame off also & show some good pics & problems along the way,,,,,,GOOD LUCK!!!

[DavisZR1]

I'm also an auto body man. Thanks T@2 for sharing those pics. But, I wouldn't allow my men to lift a C3 in the manner that is shown in those pictures. Especially, the front hookup. That nose is glued on and it could cause some stress on that front part. The car should be lifted from the rocker panels as FL described. I'm glad you showed those pics though, because it really shows "how not to do it":nono:

[T@2]

THANKS DAVIS,I would hate to see him damage the front end also!:wavey:

[aga4k]

Thanks all for your continued support for this project. Removing the doors and hood does seem like the best approach. The body is in excellent shape and recently had a $5K Canadian$ paint job, so I don't want to damage it. After looking through the assembly manual I am wonder about removing front and rear bumpers etc before removal of the body. If I could aviod this I'd like to. Is the front end so heavy that I risk other damage if I don't remove them. Want to know everything I can before I tackle this??

[DavisZR1]

You have to remove the front and rear bumper covers, because they are mounted to the front reinforcement, which is connected to the frame. Same with rear.

Aga4k, before you start the job, try to get your hands on a 1980 factory shop manual. It will tell you everything that you have to disconnect before removing the body. There are ground straps, electrical wires, brake lines, gas lines, radiator hoses (I personally would take the radiator out, with shrout and fan, heater hoses, air conditioning lines (if the car has air), steering box. Well, I guess you get the picture. Also when lifting, lift slowly and cautiously to see what is going up with the body, in case you missed something, you won't tear or break it. Good luck.

[fatherlarry]

Don't forget the to disconnect the transmission linkage and shifter, depending on whether its automatic or manual, and the gas tank neck.

It would be nice if you can find the build sheet on the gas tank. It should give you everything that you need such as what kind of options, what size rear, tranny, suspension etc.

Davis ZR1 gave you a good suggestion to get the shop manual.

[aga4k]

When you reference the "Shop Manual" are the ones listed in the Corvette Catalogues 1966-1982 Shop Manuals sufficient? They're about $25 or is a "service" manual better?

[FinWolf]

Nice looking car it is a shame it need all that work.

[fatherlarry]

Originally posted by aga4k
When you reference the "Shop Manual" are the ones listed in the Corvette Catalogues 1966-1982 Shop Manuals sufficient? They're about $25 or is a "service" manual better?

Great picture! 1980 is one of my favorite years, and so is the red.

If I were you, I would try to get manuals from Helm. You can order on line. Might be a little more money, but its a more accurate service manual. Here's the link to the 1980 service manual set. It's $60 for the set. 1980 Service Manual (http://www.helminc.com/helm/Result.asp?Style=&Mfg=GMC&Make=CHV&Model=CVET&Year=1980&Category=1&Keyword=&Module=&mscsid=USTURLMQC54K9LW6RWSXT3EBHBGL2XV8) Then click on the "1980 Shop Manual Set" and it will give you a detailed description, before you order it.

You also may want to try Ebay. Someone may be selling the original service manual. Also the National Corvette Museum may carry it . These companies are the most reputable that I know of.

If any member here has a service manual, maybe they want to post it and sell it to you. Good luck.

PS. I made your picture smaller to fit the forum.

[aga4k]

At this time I have not started the body removal yet. I have been doing a bit of investigating and have found a replacement frame for my 80. It too needs some welding repairs.

I have checked with a couple of frame shops regarding frame repairs, most don't want to even touch a corvette job. Does anyone have any experiences in frame repairs. I guess the question is "can any rust damage be repaired?". I have found a shop that is willing to have a look once I get the body off. My thought was if I have to do repairs even on a replacement frame, why not get the current one welded.

Thanks.

[FinWolf]

I know there is a paint out there I think it is called PRO15. You use it after you do all the work and fix the frame then that paint will stop it from rusting a gain.

[fatherlarry]

Originally posted by aga4k
At this time I have not started the body removal yet. I have been doing a bit of investigating and have found a replacement frame for my 80. It too needs some welding repairs.

I have checked with a couple of frame shops regarding frame repairs, most don't want to even touch a corvette job. Does anyone have any experiences in frame repairs. I guess the question is "can any rust damage be repaired?". I have found a shop that is willing to have a look once I get the body off. My thought was if I have to do repairs even on a replacement frame, why not get the current one welded.

Thanks.

aga4k,

There's all types of rust. There's surface rust, which is a haze of rust on the outer surface, there's scale rust which is repairable to a certain extent. Scale rust means that it is starting to work it's way through the steel. You will need a professional to look at it to determine how bad the frame is and to check the factory welds. The frame could also rust from the inside outward, making the frame look ok, but there is no strength to it. I know a lot of people who brought their frames to get dipped to remove all signs of rust, and only 3/4's of the frame came back up out of the vat :lol:

What I'm trying to say is, you need a professional to look at the frame to see if it is repairable. You can take a bodyman's hammer that has a point to it and tap all around the enitire frame, and if there are weak spots, you will know it, because you'll poke a hole right into it. As far as repairing frames, when the older frame cars used to get hit in the front, and the front H of the frame was really bent badly, I would order a front H from the junk yard and I would blow away the factory welds, set my alignment gauges, and weld the new H right into the factory position. Just as good as new and you couldn't tell it was repaired.

I also wanted to tell you. If the frame is rusted badly, also check the windshield post, and the hinge post on the right and left side where the air vents are. There are body mounts there that can be rotted also. The cage where I told you to lift the car like the factory does, well that is all part of the cage and can also be rotted badly. I hate to see you get yourself into something where it also needs the entire cage compartment.

Here's a telephone number for Michigan Corvette Recyclers and ask for Barry Patton, (800) 533-4650 or (517) 486-4650. His website is http://www.michigancorvette.com/. He has a 1980 frame with gaslines and whatever else you would need. Some of his frames start out at $1,500. Tell him you are a member of FatherLarry's Corvette Shop and he may give you a discount. He will actually be joining our forum shortly. He is an expert in restoration, and should be able to answer all your questions as well as furnish you with what you need to do the job. He has been in business for 25 years.

As far as what FinWolf said, I don't know much about that product, but if you get a good frame and either sandblast it down, dip it, or just remove the factory primer, it is a good idea to metal prep it before painting. There is an excellent product out there calle Neutra Rust. It was formulated in England and used on their fleets of battleships. It's distributed here in the states, in New Jersey somewhere. Let me know how you make out.

[T@2]

Heres that link for more pics,sorry i took so long to post it,i dont check my mail often>>> http://www.vettefinders.com/

[fatherlarry]

Hi T@2,

I'm a little confused. Is there a pic of your Vette on VetteFinders? The email that was sent to all members was a newsletter for members to send in pics of their own cars for the Picture of the Week starting July 1. :confused:

[T@2]

Hi ya father larry,that link should be their home page,further down the page their is the heading "79 project corvette"with about 15 or so stages of a resto along with a acid dip shot of the frame&the welding of some new body support mounts.ill try & make my posts a little clearer.im still hunting a reasonable "solid axle" so i just have a lot of places sending me mail,btw,seen a couple basket cases at carlisle last weekend.:wavey: as you know im also a member of chevy talk & 1 of the members had one of the "org" 55 chevys that was used in the movie 2 lane black top parked in the tent,found the thing up in canda!:chevy:

[T@2]

I also offer my sincer appoligies if any of the members here got unwanted mail from vette finders,or i caused a problem somewhere.

[fatherlarry]

Hi T@2,

No problem at all. I was just trying to clarify. Thank you so much for the link. Also, I don't know of any problem with emails from Vettefinders. I just wanted to clarify to the members what they should look for on the link. Now that you've explain where to go, it helps a lot. Thanks again.;bt This is a great example of the procedures for a total restoration. I put the link again that T@2 refers to which goes directly to the first procedure. You can follow it from there. Again if you're not doing the work yourself and you are having it restored by professionals, it will be a very costly project.

Before buying an older Corvette, one should take it to a professional for an assessment. It may look great on the outside, but you could be in for some disappointing surprises and a car that is structurally unsound and unsafe. Don't always go by the inspection sticker. Great link T@2. Thank you for taking the time to share this with our members. PS. Now that's the right way to lift the body.

http://vettefinders.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=79part1

[aga4k]

Thanks T@2 and Fatherlarry. I visited the Vettefinders site and looked at the restoration pictures of the 1979. The more I see and hear, the more I realize this type of restoration project is definitely not for the faint of heart, but I am willing My hope is to enjoy the car a little this summer before I start ripping it apart, hopefully gaining some knowledge and fortitude along the way. The US has far more shops/etc that deal in Corvettes for parts or services. Hopefully in the next few months I can find some folks in Alberta that can provide similar services that the Vettefinders project car has undergone. My desire is not to get an original show car in the end but a dependable, safe, long lasting car that will be enjoyed (and hopefully oogled by some) until I'm old and grey and can't see over the steering wheel or reach the gas pedal.