Replacing drivers side rear fender

[KennyHardtop]

FatherLarry, I am looking to have a job done by a body shop on my '63 Chevy Impala. I found someone in Chicago selling a whole new GM rear fender section . The reason I am replacing it is because someone side swiped me. They didn't hit the door or the bumper but they flattened the side out and some of the sheet metal is cut like a can opener cut it.

The body shop that I am thinking of bringing it to gave me an estimate of around $3,500 to replace the rear panel and that includes painting. The car was my fathers. It is a two door hardtop, kind of looks like a convertible top. My father bought it new in '63 and it only has 26,000 miles on it. All original paint and always garaged. When I told the body shop that I wanted to put the whole piece on they said that it was better if they cut it below the line of the panel as to not disturb the original roof panel and trunk area. The color of the car is white. How do you feel about doing it that way. I know this is not a Corvette question, but it's still a Chevy, and the car is like a family member. Also, the price seemed a little high to me. What do you think?:confused: :confused:

[fatherlarry]

Hey Kenny,

I'm sorry I took so long to answer, but the weather here has been so beautiful that my wife and I have been out taking rides in the country with some other vette owners.

Well, on to the 1963 Impala hardtop. Yep that's what it is. It's a hardtop that looks like its a convertible. It has those three ribs and the rear window is shaped like a convertible rear window. That was a great model and a classic.

As far as the rear fender, its called a quarter panel. You said the car has low mileage, its garaged and there is no rust, and you have a full quarter panel from GM. DON'T let the body shop talk you into cutting part of the quarter panel where the top bead is and then overlapping and either migging or spot welding it together. Let them cut the full quarter 1/4 way up the roof sail panel where the factory seam is, as on your new quarter panel. In other words, let them use the whole new quarter panel as it is from the factory including the drain and channel where the weather stripping goes, and where the rear end of the quarter meets the rear body panel. These bodies are on an X frame and the frame flexes and also the body. Eventually, if they do it their way, because the body is under stress and flexes with the chassis, it will start putting strain on the overlapped seam even if they mig it or spot weld and eventually will start cracking the body filler . If they use the whole panel and do it the right way, it will eliminate any cracking and hardly any plastic would have to be used except where the factory joints are to meet the new quarter. I've seen too many jobs seamed in and they start to crack after a few months. A body shop likes to do that because it saves time and there is less to remove. It's taking the easy way out.

As far as the price, if the car is clean with no rust as you say, they basically give 14.4 hours to remove and install the new quarter, and 6.5 hours for paint and finish. Add another $150 - $200 for material and waste. So figure what their labor rate is and multiply it by the hours I gave you, and that should give you a price. If there are additional hours on the estimate, ask them where it pertains to. Being that the quarter panel is hit the way you said, it may have damaged the inner wheel well, molding or clips for the moldings if they are broken etc. Figure a half hour to remove and install the rear bumper if the bolts aren't rusted. $3,500 seems very high. Each state has a different labor rate, but usually a good repair shop would charge a little bit more because of quality work, but not as high as they seem to be asking. I would say a good price would be roughly $1,500-$2,100. And, being it's white, he still may have to blow into the door to match the color. Well, hope this helps. Let us know how you make out. Again, please, on a classic like that, don't let them seam it, especially that you have a full new GM part. Also, ask them when they are cutting the quarter panel off and installing the new one, where they are putting the four jack stands. If they say, on the chassis, stay away from these guys. If they say on the rear axle differentials and on the front lower control arms then you know you have a repair shop that knows how to work on these oldies but goodies. Good luck.:smoke:

[KennyHardtop]

Thanks Father.

I am not too sure I understand everything, but I will relay it to the body shop. I will also be going to two other body shops that friends of mine recommended. They work on high end cars. I didn't realize that the rear fender was called a quarter panel. Thanks for the tip Father. I'll get back to you.

Kenny:wave:

[KennyHardtop]

FatherLarry you were right on target! I didn't understand what you meant so I printed out what you wrote. I hit three body shops before I hit one that would do it your way. They all wanted to seam it in. The shop I brought it to was a father and son shop and he said that you were correct in what you were telling me. I went to look at the car and the quarter is cut off with the top section, and yes they have the car on four horses sitting on the suspension. As far as price, he's charging me roughly about $1,700. There was extra damage on the wheel well like you said and he's locating me the molding that runs along the length of the quarter that says Impala. The other shops wanted to charge me $3,000 and they were seaming it in.

Thank you FatherLarry. You helped save me money and aggravation with your knowledgable answer, and helped save a member of my family.:nod: