Air Conditioning

[vincec5]

Hi Mike, father larry was tellling me about you. I live in Staten Island and I have a 1967, 427 Vette with air. I was wondering if it's a big deal to change over to the new freon, and how costly it would be. He said you were doing one on a '66 big block. Did you run into any problems? Do you recommend it? Kind of costly for the old freon today. I'd like to keep it looking original. Thanks.

[MKOTZE]

Originally posted by vincec5
Hi Mike, father larry was tellling me about you. I live in Staten Island and I have a 1967, 427 Vette with air. I was wondering if it's a big deal to change over to the new freon, and how costly it would be. He said you were doing one on a '66 big block. Did you run into any problems? Do you recommend it? Kind of costly for the old freon today. I'd like to keep it looking original. Thanks. Hi Vince5, If your current system is in working order there is really no advantage to converting to the 134A. As the 134A freon is not as efficient as the R12 and therefore will not cool as well. I realize the R12 is expensive but as long as you are only having to add up to 1 pound per year I would not recommend converting. If you are adding more than 1 lb. per year or are experiencing major failure of the system then I would convert to 134A. As per the conversion the minimum you would have to change would be the receiver dryer assembly and remove the AC compressor and drain the oil and replace it with Pag oil which is compatible with 134A. Then you would have to add 134A compatible fittings for charging the system. You would also need to check the hoses as 134A has a tendency to leak more than R12. This is due to the freon particles being so much smaller than R12. Basically cost wise is not extreme. The dryer is about $100.00, The fittings and necessary oil is about $50.00, the hoses can vary according to how they are serviced ranging from $75.00-$100.00. Labor will also vary according to where it is serviced and what the shop rate is. Approximate labor time should be about 2 hours. Hope this helps.:chevy: MKOTZE

[vincec5]

Hi Mike,

Wow, today you pay more money for a car and they give you less. The system hasn't worked for years. I disconnected the belt because the clutch went on the compressor. So I took the original compressor off and picked up another new compressor, and filled it with oil. So if I show the car, the compressor will be there with the belt on. Other than that, I don't drive the car much. I am a little confused now. What you're actually saying is if I leave the system the way it is, and bleed the old system and put the old freon back, it will be better and less expensive than changing the system around, and it will also be more effiicient. I guess that's the way I'll go. I'll use the original system. I'll have you go over the whole thing and recharge it. Let me think on this for a while. Thanks Mike.:confused:

[MKOTZE]

Originally posted by vincec5
Hi Mike,

Wow, today you pay more money for a car and they give you less. The system hasn't worked for years. I disconnected the belt because the clutch went on the compressor. So I took the original compressor off and picked up another new compressor, and filled it with oil. So if I show the car, the compressor will be there with the belt on. Other than that, I don't drive the car much. I am a little confused now. What you're actually saying is if I leave the system the way it is, and bleed the old system and put the old freon back, it will be better and less expensive than changing the system around, and it will also be more effiicient. I guess that's the way I'll go. I'll use the original system. I'll have you go over the whole thing and recharge it. Let me think on this for a while. Thanks Mike.:confused: Hi Vince5, Let's clarify a few things. First off I did not mean that you should never convert to 134A. In the first message you did not mention the air hadn't worked in years. This is the time I refered to as if something were radically wrong with the system then would be the time to convert. Which seems to be NOW. Although the 134A is less efficient than the R12 it will still cool satisfactorily. Obviously, any old system will have some leaks and at $95.00 per lb. that's pretty expensive. The 134A goes for $11.00 per lb. and although it may leak you need less of the 134A than the R12. Since you gave me more information on the system I now would recommend that you replace the hoses, the reciever dryer, and add the proper amount of the pag oil to the system. Then you would have a satisfactory air conditioning system. I'm sorry for any confusion I assumed your system was working before. If you have any other questions let me know. :chevy: MKOTZE

[vincec5]

Hi Mike, I do need to apologize. It's my fault as I never mentioned it wasn't working. I am going to be finishing some shows up in NY and CT and I'll be meeting Father Larry in Carlisle in August. Will you be there? If so, what I can do is follow you down and leave the car with you and maybe you can do it. You can take as long as you want because basically all the shows I'll be going to will be done with. If so, I'll meet you down there and we can talk. Thanks.:chevy:

[MKOTZE]

Originally posted by vincec5
Hi Mike, I do need to apologize. It's my fault as I never mentioned it wasn't working. I am going to be finishing some shows up in NY and CT and I'll be meeting Father Larry in Carlisle in August. Will you be there? If so, what I can do is follow you down and leave the car with you and maybe you can do it. You can take as long as you want because basically all the shows I'll be going to will be done with. If so, I'll meet you down there and we can talk. Thanks.:chevy: Hi Vince5,Okay to answer your questions Yes my family and I will be at the Carlisle show in August. Next , that would be fine if you want to bring the car here after the show. We can talk about the details more at Carlisle. See Ya then. :chevy: MKOTZE