buying a 67 vette [Archive] - Father Larry's Corvette Shop

fatherlarry

02-24-2004, 08:09 PM

Welcome aboard mke,

This is what I recommend, not only for Corvettes but for any pony or muscle car. Pay professionals (mechanic & body technician) to examine the car with you. I find sometimes the professionals do a better job than some appraisers that I've met. Only because some appraisers don't have hands on experience. Another good reason to have technicians along side you, besides the obvious, would be to answer any questions that the seller can't answer. The initial small investment of having professionals with you, may save you from a large investment mistake. Keep in mind, try to find professionals that are Corvette knowledgable and in the local area of where you are planning to look at the car. This usually takes a little time, but call some Corvette clubs in the area where you're going, and maybe they can recommend technicians for you. Also, educate yourself by picking up the magazine called Old Car Price Guide. They have a number system for rating that is pretty accurate. This would help you determine the condition of the car for the price that the seller is asking.

As far as what you should look for:

In General

1) Run a CarFax

2) Second would be to check the reputation of the establishment where you are buying the car.

3) Ask to see as much documentation as possible, and how far back they can go with the previous owners. When was the last inspection.

4) Ask if it's a matching numbers car. This is where the tech's come in handy. They know just what to look at and where.

5) Ask if there is any warranty.

Mechanical

1) Make sure the car is on a lift, so you can check the undercarraige, inner wheel wells, floor panels etc. Look for rust around frame near lower hinge posts. This is a common place and characteristic of C2's.

2) Check balljoints, upper and lower control rod bushings, tie rods, rear end differential, bearings, brakes, exhaust and exhaust heat riser, rear springs, shocks, swaybars etc. Check originality of ground straps, hose clamps, brackets, alternator, water pump (why I say water pump is that different mfg have different castings, opposed to original factory rebuilts).

3) If the car has air conditioning, ask if it's been converted to the new freeon, and make sure it's in working condition. Also, check heater, blower fan and heater core for leaks and wire harness for dry rot.

4) Check components such as clutch attached to the fan, water pump, originality of carburetor and whether or not it's leaking. Check wipers, switches and all gauges and components. Check the timing chain for slack, the distributor for wear, hoses and vacuum lines. I would also do a compression check on the engine and check all the fluids, gasline for rust and gas tank.

5) When test driving, if its a 4 spd manual transmission, check your clutch height, and how easily it is to shift into gears and reverse. Listen for any strange metallic sounds or clunking. Check drive shaft and universal joints. If automatic, check how smoothly the shifts go in, check color of transmission fluid and try to find out when the transmission was serviced last.

6) Also, when driving, see how the car tracks and stops and try notice any pulling. Let the car idle and check how high the temperature gets. Check for any metallic noises in engine, such as lifter noise, misfire, rough idle depending on cam that's in it, and any smoke blowing out of exhaust.

Autobody

1) Check body and fit, such as how the doors line up, the space between the quarters, fendor and doors, weatherstripping, side glass and windshield condition and fit. Especially the moldings around the front windshield.

2) If convertible, open and close convertible top, and check fit and finish to windshield and side windows. If hardtop for convertible is available, install to check the alignment and fit. In some cases the alignment may be off and the hardtop won't fit properly previous body damage. By getting underneath the car and checking the inner wheel wells you can see if the fiberglass has been repaired or any sections have been put on. If you see a lot of undercoating spray, it may be there to cover up some previous repairs.

3) Check hood alignment.

4) Check paint code for originality. Check serial number in glove box. Check all engine decals for originality. While car is on lift check all side panels for waves and or bad body work that may have been done. Check paint for chips, cracking, hazing, spliting, stress marks and how nicely the paint is layed on. Not always obvious from a distance so look closely. If it was repainted, ask how long ago and what materials they used such as what brand paint used, how many coats etc. Make sure all body lines and seams line up.

5) If the car was a ground up restoration, ask who did the restoration. Ask if there are any step by step photos, and if there are replacement parts, what brand or manufacturer was used for these parts. Check interior for wear, originality, stitching, seat track, carpeting (water stains or signs of leakage), if you can pull up the carpet to see if floor was repaired. Check originality of radio, knobs and gauges. If it has a teak steering wheel, see if it's original or a reproduction and check the horn.

The C2's are very hard to put a value on in today's market. It really comes down to what you want to spend and how high your standards are. You know if you have a fully documented, unrestored, low mileage, garage kept C2 big block, the seller has the upper hand with price, and won't be too negotiable. These C2's are really hard to find in that kind of condition. A lot of people can buy something they think is all original, but find out later that the car is not as original as they thought. This is not the sellers fault, and you can't even blame yourself, because as years go on the documentation is harder to come by.

I hope I helped you and good luck. Let us know how you make out and if you purchase it, enjoy your ride :shift:, and post some pictures.